Reef Tank controller :: Neptune Apex Lite

I have to admit, this is one place where my tank budget very quickly got away from me. But, logic got the best of me and I decided that it was just a good idea to have a way to control several perameters in the tank. Simple lighting timers are no longer the way to go in this technology enabled world we live in.  There were several scenarios that played out in my head that drove me to select one of these devices.

1) a way to protect the tank from a heater thermostat that fails and cooks the tank.
2) Lighting control of multiple devices from a single point
3) wave maker capability of powerheads
4) ability to monitor temperature/PH of the tank remotely
5) ability to monitor inputs and pumps to set up an automatic top off system.
6) ability to change pump cycles for feeding

I compared the Neptune Apex and the Digital Aquatics Reef Keeper Elite. I compared features, functionality, reviews and support.  After much deliberation I selected the Neptune Apex Lite.  This has been a great system that has proved to be easy to use and a very valuable asset to the tank.  I now graph PH, and temperature.  I can compare cycles on the heater with light cycles and verify that everything stays within a strict window of compliance.

Lighting requirements for 65 gallon reef with SPS, LPS and soft Coral

Now that I had some livestock in the tank, I wanted to add some coral to my "65 gallon reef tank".  In order to do this I needed to upgrade my lighting.  The 2 T5 HO fixture that the local fish store sold me was not going to cut it.  Due to the high cost of lighting I went to ebay to find a fixture.
I found one that had 2 250 watt MH bulbs with remote ballasts along with 4 T5HO bulbs and 18 LED Moon lighting for around $300.  Originally this fixture listed for around $950.  Everything arrived in good condition and shortly after, I had it hooked up and running. 

When selecting lighting it is important to consider what types of coral you will be keeping and what their specific lighting requirements are.  As a rule SPS require more light than soft coral.  So if you wanted to keep both, you would plan for the lighting needs of the SPS coral and keep the soft coral closer to the bottom of the tank, further from the light source.

Initial Tank Inhabitants

Now that the tank had fully cycled it was time to select some inhabitants for the tank.  Since I had heard that Clown fish were pretty hardy. I decided to add 2 Ocellaris Clown Fish,a Derasa clam and a brittle star.  I purchased these at a reputable local coral shop.  I decided to drip acclimate these over the period of an hour. 

 

 Ocellaris Clown Fish

 

Brittle Star

Derasa Clam

Cycling Reef Tank with Live Rock

Finally, cycling Time!,  Here is a picture of the Live Rock I selected to seed my tank. It had some nice Coraline Algae, a couple sponges and some tube worms.  It was very interesting to watch even without any fish or coral yet.



















Since this is a new tank as it cycled I did see some evidence that things were progressing as they should.

 














Although Not desirable in the long term.  Some green hair algae when you're getting started is ok.  It means that you're on the right track.  As long as you use RODI water with 0 TDS and do frequent changes, you will starve it out.

Cycling Methods

In the beginning there is nothing in your aquarium to begin the nitrogen cycle.  There is no organic material to get the party started.  It is important to get the cycle started before adding live fish or coral.

- The cocktail Shrimp method:  Some people will choose to drop a cocktail shrimp in their tank for a week and let it decompose

- The live rock method - You can cycle with only live rock.  It contains plant material as well as other organisms that will be producing waste. Some die off will also take place from moving the rock.  This is the method I chose since it's simple and doesn't add anything to your tank that won't be there later.

- The ammonia method:  This one is simple, you add ammonia to the tank to simulate fish waste and it breaks down into nitrate to get it going

- The kamikaze fish method: In this method of cycling.  People will add fish to the tank without cycling it first.  This is typically done with Damsels or clown fish since they are known to be more hearty than some other fish.  These fish do what fish are supposed to do and swim and poop.  This is the initial waste product that can feed the organisms in the water that consume it, thus beginning the cycle.





Lights on or off during cycle?:  There is a debate among reef keepers if the tank lights should be on or off during the initial cycle.  My personal preference is to keep them on whatever schedule that you will have them on after the tank cycles.

Skimmer on or off during cycle?  The tank says "Hey I'm trying to cycle here." and you are skimming out the waste that I need to begin.  I tend to say split the difference. 12 on, 12 off

How long should I cycle my new reef tank?  It is generally recommended that you cycle it for 4-6 weeks before adding any fish or coral.  It is also important to remember that although your initial nitrogen cycle may be complete,  your tank is always cycling.  This process is continual.   There are also other cycles that must now take place like the phosphate cycle.  More on that to come on a much later post.

Testing during cycling -  How often should I test, What should I test for?  Since you are focused on the nitrogen cycle you should be testing for nitrites and nitrates.  They will spike temporarily and will go back down once the cycle is complete.  I recommend testing every couple days to keep a handle on what is going on.  You will also want to monitor your salinity and temperature.  Especially if you're a new aquarist, it's good practice for later.